September 18. The Via Campaniensis begins! Reims to Germaine. 16.5 km

Peter has stayed behind to give his feet a break as we knew today had some long climbs over the “mountains of Reims”. With a park, a grocery and McDonald’s across the street, he’s well set up.  I’ll be going back to pick him up by train on the 19th.

Off we go. The Via Campaniensis follows the Via Francigena for the first several kilometers, so familiar footsteps 👣 for Ken and me.

Scott and Ken donning their desert gear preparatory to crossing the vast vineyard wasteland.

Our first French dog behind a fence. Last time on the VF we were barked at by an average of 11 dogs per day (yes, Ken counted). A few were friendly, most had more teeth than body, some waited stealthily until you were right beside them and then they would throw themselves against the fence at you, giving you a heart attack. This one was suspiciously quiet.

Mailbox, AED, library and fresh baguette dispenser all in an 8 foot square. Alas, Ken had no coins for the baguettes.

High narrow tractors for plowing between the grape vines.

Peter and I drive Ken nuts because we are always picking up rocks. But this is no rock. Extremely heavy, round ball. Could be a projectile of some sort.

We are in serious champagne country. Too bad none of us care for champagne. Don’t tell the French!

There is a lot of wealth in this village.  I could have this house.

Ken stays cool by wearing a wet face cloth on his head. I don’t think the rubber duckies were too pleased with him.

City hall. The village of Rilly-de-Montagne is impeccable and filled with flowers, although Scott asked why I came all the way to France to see petunias and geraniums.

We ran across a monument commemorating the bombing of the railway tunnel in this town that was being used as a V1 launch site by the Germans. The RAF Dambusters Squadron 617 were specialists in precision bombing and used the 12000 lb Tall Boy bombs to destroy this site. The RAF lost two Lancaster bombers and crew. (Scott and Peter’s grandfather Lloyd loaded bombs onto Lancasters during the war.)  Look peaceful now but I’m sure it was a horrific mess after the bombings. Brutal job but necessary.  We left Remembrance Day poppies as a sign of our thanks.

The railway tunnel as it looks today. Our trail over the mountain follows the train tunnel below us.

Ken says this looks like me. 😠

Insect house. I need to build one of these, Ken. Wait…let me clarify.  Ken, you need to build me one of these.

Isn’t he handsome with his…um…hat?

Stunning view from the top, looking back on Reims Cathedral about 10 km away by road. The tall red and white tower to the left is across the street from our hotel.

Look closely for the tiny yellow Ken climbing the steep hill. I stayed on the main trail.

Rampaging French wilde-beagle.  His hooman was nearby chainsawing some logs.

Scott also takes the straight-line shortcuts but they are too steep and I prefer the gentle trail.

Our first Camino shell. We’ll follow these to Vezelay and on to St Jean Pied de Port.

Walked through an area where they are select harvesting hardwoods, mostly oak. As a forester, I have to say they are doing a great job of it.

Always a happy moment, knowing you’ve arrived at your bed for the night.

We had a welcoming committee!

These two pregnant goats had the shortest little legs. They just wandered everywhere. There were gates across the stairways otherwise they would climb into our rooms.

And horses too! To be expected when your gite is called “The pasture”.

Today was a great day, beautiful weather, actually found an open restaurant for lunch (which can be a rarity in France), and varied terrain…and cute goats at the end (including Ken 🐐 😁). Off to Epernay in the morning.

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