This B&B tops the list of our favourite places to stay. Our hosts were ex-pat New Zealanders who have owned this place for 20 years. It was like staying with old friends. Perhaps it was the Commonwealth connection that led to sympatico conversations on a wide breadth of subjects. Plus it was just a gorgeous place with abundant kindness (just needed some cats).
An amaranth plant giving Ken the finger. Or maybe it’s saying he’s number one…
Walking towards the Monument to the First Battle of the Marne (there were two Marne battles during WW1).
33 meters of statue and 25 meters of foundation. Begun in 1919, completed in 1939, but not commemorated until 1951. The Germans, who had retreated after this WW1 battle, tried to bomb it three times in WW2…they missed. It just seems so angry and hostile, a raised fist. Hitler, on the other hand, gave orders to protect the Canadian Vimy Ridge memorial, not just because of its beauty, but because it represented peace, love and sadness and grieving for the fallen (typical Canadian attitude?).
Just to give you an idea of how tall this thing is.
In the small churchyard, there was a memorial to the war dead, with plaques recognizing the Moroccan soldiers fighting for France (Morocco was a French colony at this time). I couldn’t understand why there were fresh flower wreaths in the graveyard, laid by dignitaries, including a British poppy wreath, given that we are nowhere near November 11th. But I looked at the dates and realized all these soldiers died in battle on September 9th. I planted a Canadian flag as a sign of respect, even though we were not involved in this particular battle, although the British were.
I have photos of these three horses from 2023.
But maybe not this cow.
Ken had a conversation with an older French lady who was driving into the lovely chateau on the hill by the memorial. She seemed aghast that we were walking from Reims and London before that. Once she heard we were from canada, she mentioned how large it was compared to France. Ken said that France was big enough when you were walking across it. She found that quite funny. Nice moment.
Gotta have some fun at our lunch stop.
Oops.
Greatly enjoying the sandwiches made by Glenis and Mike. Camino angels!
Always on the hunt for a baguette dispenser. Sometimes, it is the only food we see until we reach our destination (but today we had Kiwi sandwiches!!!).
There are two memorials like this in town for two local boys, both of whom were killed on August 27 1944. The aftermath of the two world wars is never far away in these towns
An old town well.
Get outta my way! Tractors rule!
These villages on the hill crest have phenomenal views of the plains. Peter liked all the garden figures.
We watched this loader for quite awhile. Boys! The guy was really smooth!
Finally, Sezanne in the distance. Ken said I could have this ivy covered cottage as we can afford this one. It even has a fireplace! He is so good to me!
The cemetery in Sezanne is partly a military cemetery, including several commonwealth graves, mostly Brits and Scots, along with one New Zealander and one nurse. The French mark their military graves with crosses, but Commonwealth graves are beautifully kept and have headstones which include the soldier’s regimental coats of arms. These were soldiers who died in the field hospital in Sezanne, not on the battlefield, and it would have been during the Second Battle of the Marne. Some of the headstones simply say, “a soldier of the great war”. How sad that they died in hospital and still could not be identified – the poor families who never knew where their son or brother was buried.
The nurse, Evelyn Fidgeon Shaw, also deserves to be remembered. Very poignant. Perhaps she succumbed to the Spanish influenza epidemic of 1918.
I left a flag and poppy here as well.
A big upside snail to cheer us up.
Everything is so old. Nothing seems to get knocked down to make way for the new.
Scott giving Ken heck for something. Those two are driving me nuts!
So grateful to have brought a chef along. Homemade soup – yum yum!
Our place was a few doors down from the main street. Ken went one way (probably looking for a beer) while Scott and I went the other way to the grocery store. Ken and I both bought roast chicken chips. I would say great minds think alike but I don’t want to be compared to Ken!
Ken’s usual position when we finish for the day, unless he’s napping on the bed.
When you are only carrying two pairs of socks, a pair of leggings and a hiking skirt, and 3 shirts, laundromats are a welcome sight. This one was literally across the street and closer than my washer is at home tomorrow upstairs bathroom.
We were happy that the forecasted rain didn’t hit until we were safely inside. That’s two days in a row the forecast was wrong. We are not complaining!
VF Britannica Via Campaniensis Voie de Vezelay 2025 