Today was a day of logistics. We left our rental house. Peter and I headed up the hill with our laundry, while Scott and Ken headed down to the LeBoat base with all our stuff, about 3 km. Then they dumped all our stuff at the base and came back up the hill with Rawley and the big pack now empty and ready to be filled with a week’s worth of groceries.
I first made a stop at the Tannay Mairie (city hall) to get stamps for our pilgrim passports (a successful mission) and then a quick stop in the church – no stamp there.

We love these outdoor laundries when we can find them. But a lady hogged the dryer for more than an hour and I had to wait. And then another lady and her husband came and we all watched the laundry going round and round. Second lady was mad at the first lady for taking so long and talked non-stop without taking a breath. When I told her she had to speak more slowly so I could understand she just laughed and went on as quickly as ever saying everyone told her to slow down but she just couldn’t so I just smiled and nodded and watched the laundry go round.

What the heck is this?

Oh. A chou romanesco. Well, that certainly clears that up (not). Supposedly a cross between cauliflower and broccoli.

Ken and I would have walked out of the store with one bag of groceries. But Scott has planned a fancy menu for the whole week…so we have a whole cartful of groceries. Keep in mind there is a 3 Km walk back to the boat base, luckily all downhill.

I need some ivy on my house.

Tannay town square.

The local elementary school.

Ken couldn’t understand the brand new chain on an obviously non-optimal and very old bench…which would likely fall apart if Ken sat on it.

The village on the hill from across the valley, switchbacks to get down to the canal and then long steep up to Tannay yesterday.

Made it to the LeBoat base, ready to go.

But first, a safety briefing video. Warm welcome from the LeBoat base manager and technician, who were happy to hear we were veteran LeBoaters (our 6th time, first was in 2005). And probably relieved that we weren’t inexperienced newbies.

Our boat, Calypso 29. Pretty sure we’ve had a Calypso before. It’s an older boat but I chose it because of the front seating area, which the newer boats don’t have. There’s nothing so relaxing as sitting in the front of the boat, cruising down the canal, and watching the scenery go by…until Captain Bligh yells for the rope crew.


Ken helping another boater moor their boat.

More mistletoe.

Off we go. Immediately as you leave the base, you come to a lift bridge. Normally someone has to jump off the boat and push the button to lift and lower the bridge but the lock-keeper was there to do it for us. Then he raced down the towpath on his motorbike to handle the next lift bridge and three locks.



Ken has assumed the role of grumpy boat captain. Whispers of a mutiny by the rope crew are starting to be heard. Or maybe even union organization.

Leaves are starting to turn and we’re seeing some beautiful reflections.



Our mooring for the night. No marina, no power, just a lovely spot on the side of the canal with a village down the road.

Our cozy home for the next week.

We were moored by a yard full of oak logs, with sprinklers going non-stop to keep the wood wet (prevents the wood from cracking).

October super-moon.


The change from our usual hard-scrabble walking to this bourgeois lifestyle is a change that Ken can heartily embrace. Maybe he will even be a nice Captain (for a change). At least, no floggings or plank walking were ordered tonight!