An interesting noisy night with a car horn blaring in the wee hours, as if someone was honking for someone else to hurry up at 300 in the morning. And two people who sat on the front steps at 500 am having a loud coversation – the doors are glass and not well sealed – I tapped on the door and they left. Plus we had the only patch of grass around so every neighbourhood dog came to visit.
In the morning as we were getting ready to leave I had the front door open and a little old lady ( older than me) just popped in to say hello and to tell us what time mass was (all in French). We had contemplated taking the bus for 3 km to avoid the city walking but she told us there were no busses as it was a holiday. As she was leaving she gave us a “bon route” and ended with “bon courage” because there was a mountain to climb into St. Sever. What?!? A mountain???Off we go and while we’re waiting at a crosswalk, an older gentleman came over to talk with us, asking if we were doing the St. Jacques de Compestelle. He was very proud that he had walked the Via Francigena as well – that is a big accomplishment to go from Canterbury to Rome. I’m pleased that I am at least able to have rudimentary conversations with people. But here’s the thing. He also finished with a Bon route and a Bon courage…and repeated courage. He showed with his hand that the route was flat and at the end very steep. Hmmmm.
Seriously? I am taunted with yet another interesting market, but this one is your typical Saturday morning farmers market.
Ken was excited to see this 1966 Ford that belched it’s way across the parking lot. Very unusual to see any American pickup in France much less this old big v8 powered dinosaur.
Well, it is Halloween so I guess you need a fluorescent Halloween doughnut. Scott and I were just grateful that Ken found his morning coffee. We were reaching the edge of town and there would be no services until we reached the “mountain ” for which we needed courage. Scott and I need that additional courage to walk with Ken if he hasn’t had his morning coffee!
We’ve come into bull fighting country and have seen a few arenas. These are the regional offices.
The ‘Snax like getting out in the forest and cavorting on conks.
Today is All Saints Day and mass had just let out when we sat and took over the garden to have lunch. A tradition here is to bring flowers to the graveside on November 1. The cemetery was loaded with chrysanthemums and it was beautiful but I didn’t want to take a photo as there were people still bringing flowers. Gotta be respectful.
I think Scott is worse than me in trying to befriend all the kitties.
The history of this church is incredible…from the 1200s and even earlier. They kindly had a description in English and that rarity, a pilgrim stamp.
The enclosure on the left is thevgrave of a bodyguard for King Louis the 16th. Plus a small example of the fresh flowers. But I felt soooo bad. I was calling out to Scott from the doorway of the church, thinking we were alone but when I stepped outside I saw a young couple had come while I was in the church and were now saying the rosary and praying over a grave- I had interrupted. I apologized and scuttled away. So embarrassing.
Owowow woo! We lose count of how many times we give dogs a bit of excitement in their otherwise drab and dreary lives.
I was tryingvto capture a photo of the leaves “snowing” from the trees.
Bit of mud and sandy trail through pines today. Sure beats city walking.
Waiting patiently for the slow old folk.
An old Peugot where they’ve attached a Cadillac emblem on the front. Ken notices these car things. I don’t. Nor do I apologize for that!
By now, Ken is looking for a bench, a wall, any place to sit. This actually worked out well, if you ignored the cars whizzing behind your head.
They’ll never find his body thinks Terry as she sneaks away quietly.
The Adour River flowing through St Sever. We still haven’t seen the big mountain for which we will need courage.
Fish ladder.
Oh oh! The mountain!!!
It was steep…but very short. No courage needed by us. Now the guy who took his car down (even though it’s blocked off) and started slipping probably needed courage! Check out his tire tracks.
So I paid good money for this type ivy at Independent, and I’m trying to baby it through the winter, and here it is thriving in a drain pipe. Sheesh!
We are not lost. People apparently steal these on the Camino in Spain. They cost about 200 euros to by new (as opposed to from the guy selling watches from his raincoat).
I snuck in to light a candle for Ethel.
The resident hotel cat. Ken fed it some leftover duck.
My fingers are frozen as I type this two nights later because once again our room is freezing. But at least it had warmed up after we came back from dinner downstairs, where Ken had a burger and Scott feasted on duck breast (yuck).
Once in the room, Ken and I joined a zoom call about the Via Francigena, hosted by the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome, to which we belong. It’s an opportunity for people from all over the world to talk about their experiences on the VF or to ask questions if they are in the planning stages of walking, so no blogging that night to catch up. It was good to connect with people that know why we do this as we were starting to wonder ourselves. Great especially to talk to Nick Dunne as the last time we saw him was over supper at the Angel Pub in London a long two months ago.
VF Britannica Via Campaniensis Voie de Vezelay 2025 