While I was in the church yesterday, Ken had already found a beer at our hotel…but a slightly drunk Frenchman was chatting with him, talking about his wife and /or his girlfriend with 7 children and her pilot husband but I think he was an ex husband and maybe she was his wife or just a girlfriend in addition to a wife and French and English cultures are so different and she wanted to learn French and on and on. It was all very confusing and stream of consciousness on his part and he was difficult to dodge. Turns out he works at the hotel – the proprietor must have seen the look on my face and said something to him because when we came down for dinner he avoided us. Not that he was unpleasant but he was smoking and going on about his soap opera life and we just wanted to get to our room after a long day walking (and lets not forget walking up that mountain!). but in retrospect, he added to the flavor to the day!
Ken was able to start his day with a coffee. To this, Terry and Scott say yay.
I created quite the kerfuffle in the church this morning. I was signing the guest book and saw a little sign that said I could get a pilgrim stamp in the tourist office (closed) or in the sacristy. There were some ladies preparing for mass so I asked them about a stamp, which then involved 3 ladies running around like chickens till they found a guy who spoke English who went to check on things. I didn’t know whether to be amused or annoyed when one lady told the other lady that I couldn’t speak French but I could understand it. I was told if I waited 15 minutes the priest would come. Left the church to find the boys in the bakery, bought myself a brownie and went back to the church. Another gentleman came to find me and took me into the sacristy to stamp our credentials. The priest ignored me. I got my stamps, was asked if we were staying for mass, to which I replied that we had a long walk and it was already late. The gentleman said that they would say a prayer for us during the mass. I have to admit to a bit of Catholic guilt for not staying. And as I was leaving the first English speaking guy came to make sure I got my stamps. More guilt.
For Ethel.
Judgmental kitty.
Painted antique store.
We couldn’t figure out what these two giant slugs were surrounding. Some jellied mass.
Imagine having a creek of crystal clear water running under your house.
We’ve seen a lot of these large mole piles but this is the first one with the actual entrance/exit hole.
The inscription is in Latin, loosely says whoever lies here, may they rest in peace.
The flowers in these cemeteries are phenomenal. They turn a somber place into one of joyful remembrance.
After hardly seeing any open churches for several days, the last couple of days there have been many. I am lighting most of them for a dear friend.
These frescoes are about 400 years old. I really need to read more about this church. It is built around a Roman altar.
Hello, Bugsnax.
Yucca.
We are starting to see several of these large crosses every day. Each region in France seems to have their own style.
Rain storm moving in. Let’s hide here for a bit.
Rare blue sky to the right of us. Black sky on the left.
This oak tree is eating the metal cross. I wonder how many decades that has taken?
More October Rose umbrellas and ribbons.
We are also seeing religious statues near most of the villages, something we did not see further north.
A pilgrim tradition is to place rocks on crosses. This was the first place we had seen on this whole trip where there were rocks. It stems from the Cruz de Ferro on the Camino Frances, where pilgrims bring a stone from home to leave at the cross, with the stone representing burdens you carry or sins you want to atone for.
More hunting.
The traffic circles have pictures of the local “products”. Today it was geese, yesterday it was chickens.
We still have a kilometer to go but the heavens opened up and we took refuge in the entryway of the church.
Pub closed. Ken sad.
Arriving at our lodging for the night is always a relief, and even better when you are greeted by a ginger cat. The cat’s name is Biscotte!
We are in a lovely Chambre d’Hôtes tonight with blessed heat and a most welcoming hostess. When she found out we had no booking for tomorrow, she phoned for us and secured a place. I had emailed but no response. We had use of a kitchen and a washing machine. Scott made his famous lentils and rice (he carries both) as it is Sunday and everything is closed, including the Irish Pub that we passed, much to Ken’s continued chagrin.
Time to catch up on the blog. Ken and I sat in on a Via Francigena conference call last night so no time for blogging, and I was already behind.
VF Britannica Via Campaniensis Voie de Vezelay 2025 