Ken decided he wanted to walk the beginning of the Camino France, retracung our rookie steps from 2019. This route begins with a fairly arduous climb over the Pyrenees on a track called the Route Napoleon. You can do the full 25 km to get to Roncesvalles on the Spain side, or stay in an albergue at Orisson about 8 km up to shorten the journey. My good friend Nancy who had done the Camino 2 years earlier recommended staying at Orisson, which we did (we were so thankful for that advice). Ken has good memories of the beer he had upon arrival and not so good memories of sleeping in a dorm room with 7 ladies, all of whom gave him the death stare in the morning because of his snoring. (We stayed in private rooms after that).
In 2019 we naively set off from SJPDP on our first walking adventure. Ken was in a bit of denial and instead of using a hiking backpack, he took the gray bag we use on Rawley the Trolley, which is more of a suitcase with backpack straps. So too big and too heavy, coupled with not knowing what to expect.
The walk out of town is hilly but the climbs are short to start. We are faced with an elevation gain of almost 700 m. However we both clearly remember a spot where the road turns sharply to the left and the climb from there is steep and relentless, 400 m gain over 3 km. This turn is where Ken was headed, walking as fast as if that beer was still waiting for him at Orisson.
Finally a few photos with no people. As Tuesday was a holiday, there were quite a few tourists in town. And we’ve seen perhaps a handful of pilgrims starting out on their 800 km voyage to Santiago. We understand how they feel – excited, nervous, will I make it, did I remember my phone charger…
Trinquet is a building in which pelote is played, while a fronton is the wall which the ball is thrown against. Most of the towns have the outdoor fronton and I even saw a house with its own, like having a basketball hoop in your driveway.
How do you get a speeding ticket in a VW van?!? I have one and it only goes like 20 km/hour. (Well, right now it goes zero km/hr…hint hint, Ken.)
There 2 routes out of SJPDP to Roncesvalles ” the more popular and more difficult Route de Napoleon, which is closed from November 1 to April 1) or the ValCarlos route, which doesn’t climb as high and is the safer way to cross in winter.
Zazpiak Bat is the gite we stayed at in 2019 but it is also the name of the Basque coat of arms, which I just recently learned.
This used to be a vending machine stop before more services were added in SJPDP. Closed for the season or for good, not sure. Where’s a Twix bar when you need it?
We’re not impressed with this recent desire to plaster stickers on the signs.
This looks exactly like our forest tent caterpillars except it is brown instead of blue.
Here’s the turn. Part of me wanted to continue the 3 km…but my brain and legs flat out refused. Plus we still need to walk back. Hard to think the pass is closed when I’m walking in a tshirt but the weather up there is unpredictable and can change very quickly.
The beginning of the unforgiving ascent.
As usual the 2 dimensional picture does not at all show the actual slope which was a real wake up call of reality as we recall. Good thing we have the choice to turn around this time.
Spotted dead nettles. They’re not dead, that’s just the name. Lovely flowers on a nasty plant. Nettles have been our one constant companion on this walk, starting in England.
Oof. I think I can make it up. I think.
And here they come, looking for a handout. Sorry, babies. I have nothing and we shouldn’t feed you anyway.
Passion fruit. They have the most beautiful blossoms when in bloom but I don’t think this fruit is edible.
I would absolutely get this for Scott if I could. A cheese Advent calendar! 24 days of different local cheeses.
It’s not the real thing. Euskola! 🎼🎵🎶 but Scott says it tastes good.
Turns out our first train for tomorrow is cancelled…because it’s France and we decide not to run trains or not open a store when we say we are going to because…well, just because. The boys get pretty frustrated. We’ll have to see if the pilgrim office can help with an alternate way to get to Bayonne.
I also talked to the pilgrim office today about the cat, and I can drop off the cat food and bowls I’ve bought there and they will feed my kitty. I told them that she is a pilgrim too. The one lady said she feeds it also. The volunteers switch out every week but I prefer to think they will continue to care for her. I left enough food for a few weeks.
Time to wrap our heads around the fact that the majority of our walking is over. We are going to be tourist for a couple of days, rent a car and drive along the Camino to Santiago to pick up Antonio. We’ll begin walking again on the 125 km extension from Santiago to the Atlantic.
VF Britannica Via Campaniensis Voie de Vezelay 2025 