I woke up early this morning to hear a familiar “Buen Camino” through the open window as yet another pilgrim was sent on their merry way over the Pyrenees to begin their Camino. “Buen camino” is the standard greeting/goodbye for all pilgrims and you hear it countless times if you are on a busy section. I’ve even had people lean out car windows to call it out to us.
We pack up and prepare to leave. But first I must look after my cat – feed her then later in the morning I bring her food and bowls across the street to the pilgrim office. I gave her more food there so she knows she has new people looking after her. She hangs in the street a lot, especially near people sitting on benches, but it is primarily a pedestrian street so no worries about cars. I have many mixed emotions at leaving her but at least I know she will be fed for a while and I have to believe the pilgrim office will continue to care for her. And the temperatures stay mild.
This week’s volunteers at the office. They switch out every week. I am seriously considering volunteering, maybe in a couple years. They always want at least one English speaker and it gives me incentive to keep up with my French. I would want to do the Camino again first, maybe drag my sister along.
Some last pics of the town as we head to the train station. I went to the tourist office to see what the options were as the trains were no longer running. Because…it’s arbitrary France. However, it turns out the trains were cancelled because they were expecting heavy winds from the Sahara – a sirocco…similar to the chinook winds that pour over the Rockies into western Alberta, these winds pour over the Pyrenees and wreak havoc on the trains. But if the trains are cancelled, they provide a bus as an alternative. when i think about the winds yesterday were warm and strong, warm enough for a Tshirt.
Our yard.
Le bus.
This pilgrim was made up of plough shears, with each one donated by a different village along the Way, to represent the assistance provided by the villages and ploughmen to pilgrims.
There were only about 8 people on the coach. Ken was envious of the guy across the aisle drinking a beer.
Blurry photo of my first storks taken out of the bus window
Blurry photo of egrets taken out of the bus window.
The regional crop in this valley is hot peppers. I caught sight of this store, also from the bus window, and since we are coming back this way with the car, I plan on stopping here. Spoiler alert: when we came back it was closed for their two hour lunch. Grrrrrr.
I’m not sure I’ve mentioned this before but every apartment-type place we’ve stayed in has been furnished courtesy of IKEA, from Scott’s couch to the dishes.
We have 5 hours to spend in Bayonne. Scott presumes the Ste. Cluque is the patron saint of chickens.
This Christmas ride looks like fun. Maybe.
The confluence of the Adour River (which we crossed in St Sever) and the Nive, which we crossed in SJPDP. The river is on its way to the ocean, only a few kilometers away.
Scott and I visited the Basque museum. We’ve commented that we have seen so many more men wearing berets here – turns out that berets are an Basque item. Still can’t convince Ken to wear one.
Speaking of scruffy Ken…
They shaved off his mustache. The jury is out.
Feed one.
Feed them all.
Waiting for the train. Scott had reserved us 3 seats together facing each other…and when we get there, there were three people in our seats and boo hoo can you take our seats instead? They whipped out two tickets with their seat numbers. I said there’s three of us and the third guy whipped out his ticket. I wasn’t feeling all that charitable but the train was packed and people were piling on. So Scott agreed and took off to seat 126 and Ken and I went to 95 and 96, only to find a lady there. But she was good, saw that she was in the wrong seat and moved. But pretty nervy to take someone else’s reserved seats.
Bordeaux is a huge station and very impressive.
We had a very long 5 minute walk to our Ibis Budget Hotel, which gives us this configuration of a bunk looming threateningly over the two beds below. But it’s cheaper than two rooms. Ken needs to keep a wary eye out for flying objects from above.
Tomorrow we pick up the car. This walk, this pilgrimage, has been so disjointed. We’ve had great adventures but I hope next week’s last bit of walking will bring back the pilgrim feeling.
VF Britannica Via Campaniensis Voie de Vezelay 2025 