November 21. Camino de Fisterra. Corcubion to Fisterra. 20.10 km

Our last day of walking! Today we reach the end of the Camino de Fisterra, the final 100(ish) kilometers from Santiago to the Atlantic Ocean. Many pilgrims stop in Santiago but there are always some who continue on to complete their journey.

Ken was too sick to walk it in 2019 and we drove to Fisterre.  But that isnt the same as walking and so we have returned to complete it as true pilgrims.

We were blessed with a beautiful day with only one small shower. Galicia is known for its rainy windy weather so we were grateful to end on a high note weather-wise. Actually, we’ve had good weather for most of the trip with only one day of heavy soaking downpour back in France.

Back to the bar in the morning for our usual breakfast of tostadas, 2 cafes con leche, ColaCao (hot chocolate), and a cafe Americano.

This mess of electrical wires looks like…I don’t know what, other than maybe frightening.

So here we are, all bright and shiny and smiling for our last day of walking.

We started with a steep climb…because that’s just how mornings start. But we are getting good at them. No huffing and puffing.

Cape honeysuckle.

This albergue said it was open all year but it looked closed to me. I think pilgrims walking this time of year struggle to find a bed if they don’t plan ahead.

Scott liked the albergue across the road because not only was it open, it had jungle-themed rooms.

The ocean becomes tantalizingly close again.

We are seeing tons of citrus trees. Not quite ripe yet.

Pilgrim rest stop with a pilgrim stamp, vending machine and a working stove, for some reason.

Off and on spitting rain but not enough to bother with the rain gear.

Down to sea level.

Such a cutie!

STOP, Terry! You are not allowed in here! But when has that ever stopped me? Check out the Camino shell art. Alas I bought nada.

So. These two dogs. The four of us were fairly spread out, as usually happens on a hill, and the pilgrim detection system was working at full strength.  Ie the dogs start barking whenever someone walks by so you always know how far ahead of you the next guy is. By the time I went by these two dogs had already been yipping and yapping very annoyingly for several minutes. I was the last in line, and the owner finally stuck his head out presumably to tell the dogs to shut up. Instead, he said “senora” and waved his hand and shushed me along as if all the barking was my fault.  Instead of his own issue by putting two little yappers on a porch beside a road that pilgrims pass all day long. But I just rolled my eyes and left. But it’s really Ken’s fault since he started them barking in the first place.

Finally at the beach and my fingers are itching to collect Camino scallop shells. In ancient times, people who undertook the Camino had to return with a scallop shell to prove they had actually completed the walk. That is how the shell became the symbol of the modern-day Camino de Santiago,  except now people put one on their packs at the beginning of their Camino instead of the end.

Norfolk Island Pine. I have one at home that is over five feet tall. Ken refuses to move it anymore.

Scott proves his strength in the exercise park.

No, Ken. We are not eating there. Michelin starred restaurant. I never realized these restaurants are associated with the Michelin Tire Man. The company started the Michelin restaurant guides as a means to sell more tires by encouraging people to drive farther but know that there was a place to eat. Menu with very expensive seafood selections below.  The euro is about $1.62 Canadian. So… $160 for a lobster that was probably caught 5 miles from here.

Ken chose another restaurant that only had seafood on the menu, nothing I could eat, not even a salad, so I went down to water’s edge and picked up shells.

We saw more cats in this town as we walked to our rooms for the night than we’ve seen on the entire trip. They are everywhere. But they don’t look skinny or under-fed.

The view from our balcony. Only $100 for two very nice rooms for the night. The Camino ends at the lighthouse 3 km up the hill. So Ken and I took the opportunity to lighten the loads in our packs and Antonio and Scott just left theirs behind.

End of Chemin de Saint-Jaques, Jacob’s Way, Jakebsweg, el Camino de Santiago.  All are names for the same pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compestelle and to the end at Finisterre. Tradition states that St James is buried in Santiago. Iago is James in Spanish. Jacob and James and Jaques are all inter-changeable.

Hey, can you find Dave the Goblin? We were so worried about him as we haven’t seen him for two days

Just chilling by the souvenir shop.

Our good friend, my Spanish son, Antonio.  So happy he joined us!

These four little guys have walked the Via Francigena from London to Rome in 2022 and 2023, and in 2025 have walked from London to Dover, and Reims to SJPDP,  and Santiago to Fisterra. We’ll, actually,  they hitched a ride in my pack.

WE MADE IT!!! The 0.000 kilometer marker. As Ken says, this time we “earned it”, as in 2019 he was too sick to walk it and this was Antonio’s first time on this particular Camino. 

Three human pilgrims, one triceratops and three Bugsnax, the latter three were made by Peter.

There is a brass boot on the last rocks.

Can you find Dave for one last time?  Maybe he ran out of stickers which might explain his worrisome absence the last while.

The lighthouse (faro).

Two brothers.

Peter wanted Teensy to have a solo photoshoot. We found Teensy years ago on the lawn of the Travelodge in Drumheller.

If I fits, I sits.

The beeline for the beer after we’ve headed back down to town.

The boys just couldn’t resist another round of padron pepper roulette. Not sure the winner was – Scott or the pepper!

I end today’s blog with this sad note.

Part of my journey has included carrying my friend Ethel in my heart as she battled cancer. I have lit candles for her in magnificent cathedrals and in humble churches, as her faith was important to her.  Ethel sadly passed a few days ago. There is no chapel here at Finisterra, Land’s End, the final stopping place of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. No candle to light.

So in pilgrim fashion I lay a rock on the cross which looks benevolently across the Atlantic Ocean at Ethel’s Newfoundland home and I bid Ethel a final good bye and wish her Buen Camino and Ultreia on her next journey.

And to Christine, who was always there in so many ways for Ethel over the last several months, you are the epitome of a Camino angel and Ethel was so lucky and proud to call you friend.

Godspeed, my friend ❤️