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Today we are able to follow the Camino far more closely, crossing it, driving beside it, sometimes a little ways off. We saw about 25 pilgrims over the course of the day. Considering we only saw two pilgrims along the whole of the Via Campaniensis and Voie de Vezelay during a 2 month period, that wasContinue reading “November 15. Estella to O Cebreiro. By car.”

We’re off now on the automobile portion of “planes, trains and automobiles” plus feets and boats.  This has been such a strange journey with so many modes of transportation.  And only 2 weeks left before we head home. We are on our way to Santiago to pick up Antonio to begin our Camino Finesterre andContinue reading “November 14. Bordeaux France to Estella Spain. By Car.”

I woke up early this morning to hear a familiar “Buen Camino” through the open window as yet another pilgrim was sent on their merry way over the Pyrenees to begin their Camino. “Buen camino” is the standard greeting/goodbye for all pilgrims and you hear it countless times if you are on a busy section.Continue reading “November 13. SJPDP to Bayonne to Bordeaux.”

Ken decided he wanted to walk the beginning of the Camino France, retracung our rookie steps from 2019. This route begins with a fairly arduous climb over the Pyrenees on a track called the Route Napoleon. You can do the full 25 km to get to Roncesvalles on the Spain side, or stay in anContinue reading “November 12. SJPDP to SJPDP.  9.55 km. Gain of 287 m. A walk down Memory Lane.”

We sent Ken off to find a baguette for breakfast while Scott scrambled eggs and made home fries. Ken also came back happily with a take out coffee which is very hard to find here. First order of the day was to attend the Remembrance Day ceremony.   The ceremony was quite a bit different thanContinue reading “November 11. Remembrance Day in SJPDP.”

Mom! Ken cursed me and wished 10000 years of darkness on my bloodline. Ken says he spent a lot of time muttering to himself on this walk. Scott:  Ken spent a lot of time muttering “waaah” to himself. Scott accusing Ken of going “waaaaaah” has been a running joke on this walk. Will it everContinue reading “November 10. SJPDP.”

Well. This will be our last day of walking in France as we are set to arrive in St Jean Pied de Port, the end of our French pilgrimage, with one more stage in Spain to come. This is the earliest we’ve gotten on the road in the morning, before 830 am.  Since Richard wasContinue reading “November 9. Larcevaux to St. Jean Pied de Port. 20.36 km.”

The morning starts in its usual manner with the usual flurry of insults and bad jokes. We also left really late, at 1030 am, to avoid the heavy downpour, which in turn makes us come in pretty late to our next bed for the night. Ken’s fondest wish – do not disturb. The artisans boulangerieContinue reading “November 8. Saint-Palais to Larcevaux. 17.24 km”

After walking almost a straight week on what is becoming increasingly hilly and difficult terrain, it was time for a rest day to give the old tootsies a break.  Scott and I took the opportunity to do a walking tour of the town, which is actually fairly small. We get plain yogurt at every breakfastContinue reading “November 7. Rest day in Saint-Palais.  “

Jeremy stamped our passports for us. He works from home and actually delayed his morning ZOOM meeting so we wouldn’t have to be so rushed in the morning. Every place has their own unique pilgrim stamp – Jeremy’s is based on the palm tree in his yard. Go left then right then down. Then youContinue reading “November 6. Sauveterre-de-Bearn to Saint-Palais. 16.72 km.”